Ram Nagar

          Sitting on the steps ot tulsi Ghat, looking across the river. you will  see on the far bank the bartered walls of Ramnagar Fort. A medieval silhouette of stone battlements and arched wondows painted against the sky. Ramnagai Fort. 14 kms from Varanasi is a part of any guided tour of the city. This fort  and its museum are the repository of the history of the kings ot Benaras Since the 18th century it has been the home of the Kashi Naresh. or the King of kashi. Varanarasi was an important province of the Mughal empire. By the 18th century. the empire was rapidly disintegrating and during the resign of Mohammed Shah in the first quarter of the 18th centurv. the son of an ambitious landowner, Balwant Singh. assumed the title ot the RaJa of Benaras He, however. ceded pre-eminence to the Nawab of Awadh, who in turn, paid nominal allegiance to the Mughal emperor in Delhi. The Maharajas had a tumultuous relationship with the Nawab of Awadh who ruled from Lucknow They offered up revenue and trops and in return reaped the benefits of peace. In fact, the influence of the nawabi culture of Awadh lives on today, and is especally seen in the Benaras school of dance and music Taking advantage ot the chaos born from disintegration of Mughal empire in the last quarter ot the l8th century the Raja of Benaras also .started striving for supremacy    in their region a new centre of power arose with the advent of the Fast India Company and in 1775 Asafud Uauala, the Nawab of awadh was  foreced to cede varansi to the british Then in 1910, Benaras was made a rull-fledged state with its capital at Ramnagar and when India became independent in 1947, Benaras joined the Indian Union  Even tod.u thr Ksshi Naresh is deeply revered by the people of the city  He is the who consider him a  reincarnation of  lord  Shiva He is also the chief cultural pathron and an essental part of  all religious celebrations. when the Dussehara Festivities are inaugurated with a colourful pageant gh rides an elephant at the head of the procession. then resplendent in silk and brocade, he inaugurates the month long folk theatre of ram leela at Ramnagar. the ram leela is a cycle of pays that ricounts the epic story of lord rama as told in ramcharitamanas the version of the ramayana penned by tulsi das.

The plays, sponsored by the Maharaja.are performed in Ramnagar every evening for 31 davs. On the last day, the festival reach a crescendo as rama vanquishes the demon king Ravana. Maharaja udit Narayan Singh srted this  tradituin of staging the ram leela at Ramnagar in mid-l9th century. Built bv Kaja balwant Sjngh with creamy chunar sandstone in the 18th century, ramnagar Fort is typically Mughal with courtyardsand picturesque pavilions. a large section of the fort is still the private domain of the visitors. wander around the corridors and see the excellent cavings on doors windows  and pillars A rare colleition ot manuscripts espccially religious writings, is housed in Siraswati Bhawan. It includes a precious handwritten manuscript by Tulsi Das. Then- are also many books illustrated in the Mughal miniature style, with beautifully designed covers Then there is the Yasai Temple. According to a popular Puranic story. when Vyasa tailed to get alms in Varanasi he put a curse on thr city Soon alter, at a house where pravati and  Shiva had taken human form as householders, Vyasa was so pleased with the alms he received  that he forgot his curse. however because ot his bad temper Shiva banished vyasa from Varanasi Resolved to be near at hand, vyasa took his residence on the other side ot the Ganga where his temple may still be seen at Ramnagar The  best way to reach Ramnagar is by boat. Alternatively, you can take a rickshaw that will take you across  the bridge. You can ask the rickshawala to wait or take a boat back or even walk back over the pontoon bridge.

**Ramnagar Fornt Open from 9 am to noun and from 2 pm to 5 pm.

Chunar

Chunar  from the vantage  point   at the Northern  extremely of Kaimur  Hills  ,   the   impressive   sandstone    battlements  of  Chunar command  a meander  in the  Ganga  before  the  river curves  North to Varanasi  22Km away .evidence of  the  earliest  occupation of the  site dates  it  to  Vikramaditaya of Ujjain  in 56  B.C.  Chunar sandstone has been  used for centuries   , most famously  in Ashokan Pillars - highly polished  for  sheen and Longevity   and  is  still  Quarried , leaving the   surrounding    hills Looking  ravaged  in  places.  The  almost impregnable citadel  ,  protected by  Massive Mughal  ramparts ,  looks down  on  to  the  River ,graced  by a  Beautiful Beach  of  Silver  sand during  the dry season; the views  of  the  Sunset  are Stunning. Akabar stormed the fortress in 1575 , and it was presided  over by  the Nawabs of Avadh  until the British took it 1764

Chunar Fort

          Fort of Chunar,  39  kms,  from Varanasi is interesting because  it's had  a succession of owners representing  most  of  India's Rulers  over the  last  500 years. Sher Sah  took over  from  Humayun  in 1540  .Akbar recaptured it for  the Mughals  in  1575,  and  then in the  mid  18th century  it passed into the hands  of  Nawabs  of Avadh and was finally claimed by the British.

 

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