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Silk
vanarasi is a synihesis of many influences - like the merging of the
waters of the Ganga and the Yamuna. This synthesis is also reflected in
its crafts Take silk, what is woven and designed by Muslims and sold by
Hindus Tradirionally silk was considered the purest cloth for rituals
and was used only to clothe temple deities. In fact, in ancient times,
silk weavers used to live within the preincts of temples and perhaps that
is how the silk trade came to the temple town of Varanasi. Silk is
woven into the very myth and history of Kashi. It is also said that
after he attained Paruurvana, the Buddha's body was wrapped in silk
from Kashi, woven so fine it did not even absorb oil. A variety of silk
called gaiser was specially woven for the monks of the Tibetan
monasteries. In India, the silk sari from Varanasi is a legend of
beauty. It was called kassiya or Kashivastra and even today, every
Indian bride craves for at least one Benarasi sari in her trousseau.
The silk saris woven here use yarn that comes trom Kanuataka. It is the
processing of the silk that give silk from every region its unique
texture.
Silk yardage from the South is stiff as it is
polished with wax. In Varanasi, the unprocessed or kora silk yarn is
boiled and twisted, and then processed using arrowroot, reetha and flour.
This soft skein is then woven into yardage called katan. he most famous
weaves are the heavy jamdani brocades woven with gold and silver thread
called zari. Even fifty years ago, the zari was made of pure gold and
silver, and these
saris, when no longer worn, were sold for the precious
metal they contained. Today real zari saris are only made to order, and
what is available off-the-rack are saris with synthetic zari. The other
weave special to Varanasi is the tanchoi, an embossed weave that is said
to have come from China with the traders. The intricate baluchar pattern
is originally from Bengal, and the Varanasi weaver added zari to it. The
valkalam on the other hand uses only satin thread and many of its designs
are taken from motifs seen in miniature paintings. The motifs used on the
Banarasi sari have beautiful names like guldasta (bouquet), ambi (mango or
paisley), latifa (flowers), bel-buta (creeper and buds) and badal me phul
(blossoms in clouds). To see the weavers at work you have to travel to the
localities of Alaipura, Madanpura and Lallapura. Most weavers work from
home and they can sometimes be a bit wary of visitors. So it is a good
idea to get a guide to take you there and enter only if invited to do so.
To watch wholesale trading in saris, go to the sattees, the dealer markets
in Golghar and Kunj Gali. The
sattees are a shimmering wonderland
of silk the dealers called gaddias
in tiny cubicles ccalled gaddis on white
floor mattresses, leaning on
bolsters The weavers or karigars arrive
tarrying their card board boxes of saris and they
spread out the rainbow- hued
silks. the transaction is done in a
rapid-fire code of numbers. Retail
rtaders come from all corners of the country to buy saris
from these gaddidarrs. Way back in the 2nd century BC, the grammarian
patanjali tells of how the vaishyas or traders referred to Varanasi as
jaishila for commerce always triumphed
here.
Varanasi is famous for its silk weaving, and
Banarasi silks are a part of every girl's wedding trousseau. Banaras
Brocades are prized the world over. Brassware, copperware, wooden and
clay toys, and exquisite gold jewellery are some of the other crafts
the city is famous for. The hand-knotted carpets of Mirzapur and musical
instruments are among the other shopping attractions. Varanasi is also
famous for its Langda Aam, a variety of mangoes available in the summer.
Betel leaf is also a speciality. The main shopping areas are Chowk,
Vishwanath Gali, Thatheri bazaar, Lahurabir, Godou- lia, Dashswamedh Gali
and Golghar. Banarsi silk with hustlers and rickshaw drivers keen
to drag tourists into shops offering them commission, shopping in
Varanasi can be a nightmare. Still, it's worth seeking out the city's rich
silk weaving and brasswork. The best areas to browse are Thatheri Bazaar
(for brass), Jnana Vapi and Vishwanatha Gali with its Temple Bazaar (for
silk brocade and jewellery), the State run emporia and Mahatex in
Godaulia, Chowk, and the three handloom outlets at Lahurabir, Nadesar and
Neechi Bag. Qazi Sadullahpura, near Chhavi Mahal Cinema, lies at the heart
of a fascinating Muslimt neighbourhood devoted to the protion of'
silk Varanasi is famous for its silk weaving cottage industry. The
process of weaving silk begins with the making of the yarn and then
rolling it on to a spindle
a job that requires dexterous fingers. Entire families are involved in
this creative work. Large looms are set up at home, with an elaborate
frame for the warp and weft threads. Banarasi silk
brocades have small,
often minute, motifs made of gold or silver
thread. Each motif has to be created individually
using tiny shuttles. In the old days, authentic gold thread was used, but to-
day artificial fibre has replaced it. Varanasi has been famous for
its Gharanas in classical music and singing. And the musicians and
singers here have always been striking sweet notes because of the quality
musical instruments manu-
factured in the city.
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